artisanal thinking

’twas back in old September that I first received a first burlap sack of cacao. As was mentioned last week, I’m growing geometrically, and have obtained two more sacks, now giving 300lbs of cacao at my disposal. Sneak peek—I’m working to establish a direct trade relationship with individual farmers in Guatemala to get 500kg (or more!). But the milestone passed that necessitates these new supplies is that the primary is spent—last Friday, I roasted up the last of my original Panamanian cacao!

Sep-Feb 15th is 5 months, about 21 weeks. Starting with 110lbs of cacao, I’ve been making chocolate at the rate of at least 5lbs/week, evincing my predicted production schedule. For the second set of sacks, I expect my production rate to increase proportionally with the cacao available. Therefore nearing my birthday in July, I should be rising to find the third installment of cacao and at least one more level of geometric expansion.

More so than say, the first dollar I made, this first burlap sack I’ve emptied is an emotional souvenir I’ll proudly display for years to come.

Reemergence of Paradiso Pairings

Those who’ve watched me grow from infancy will remember the samples of batches #1, 2 and bars from #3, 4 that I brought to Caffe Paradiso last August. Five and a half months elapsed with no chocolate option for the independent minded coffee drinker, but all that was remedied just two days ago, Tuesday February 16th, with a renaissance of Flatlander Chocolate on the counter of our Caffe. This time with better labeling technology, diversity of flavor and strength, increased awareness and recognition, the response was ebullient, brisk sales ensued, all were satisfied.

Tuesday, ten bars, split between Côte d’Ivoire and Dark Milk Salted Caramel, were brought in about 8am and I heard that by 11:30, none remained. Being otherwise occupied at the time, I didn’t replenish the stash with a second decemvir until 4pm, another four of which were history by the time they closed. Wednesday I brought eight bars (running low on supplies now), substituting Malagasy for Ivoire and found similar desertion in the evening. Today, finding myself lonely with a lack of salted caramel, I tested the waters with a double dark offering, Peru and Côte, this time finding a couple stragglers at 8pm when I took them home, but happy with a respectable seven sales. I will be taking a break tomorrow, as my stocks have dwindled, and I need time to replenish, but once my army regroups, we’ll return in full force to the Caffe, sacrificing ourselves, along with our sibling bean, Coffea arabica, to tongues, nostrils, and Urbana hearts.

Phatlander?

Fie, fie, how franticly I square my brand!

Not quite in an attempt to reference the 19c story of spatial transcendence, but rather to try and give what I consider a ‘true portrait of Illinois,’ I’m rechristening the brand: ‘Flatlander Chocolate’. To me, a boy who grew up in the hills and forests of California…prairie? plain? no, planes are what my region of the Midwest entails, the stamp I feel and what of it I own. For an enterprise which has as its goal, the experience of terroir, of tasting a place, through chocolate, I feel a sense of the place of production is paramount. This and a desire for transparency is the original reason I chose, ‘Daniel Harry Schreiber, Chocolate Maker of Urbana, IL’ to be my original moniker. A name which has as it’s virtue that it answers three important questions one has upon meeting a new individual—who are you? what gives you passion? where do you practice it? We hope the new still gives a sense of our motivation and origin, but more succinctly so. However, I do still plan to sign off somewhere on the bar my trio of responses, that I may be an open book to all.

Signing off, concisely, or not.
Daniel Harry Schreiber
Chief Chocophile
Flatlander Chocolate
Urbana, IL, 2010.

Commerce? Okay, I can understand that—therefore I borrowed some heart-shaped molds from my partner, Bill, and recently shaped up some sweet dark milk chocolate hearts. Besides an experimental truffle recipe that I am planning on trying out today, these hearts are the main offering this first Valentine’s day witnessed by Daniel Harry Schreiber, Chocolate Maker of Urbana, IL. A bit lackluster, I admit, but a state of affairs due to the fact that I have been too busy to consider human or chocolate heart, instead focusing on wrapping my bars in top quality works of art.

Yes, I’ve been leveraging the creativity of my friends, one, a computer scientist who wanted to experiment with Adobe Illustrator, another an art student looking for a fun side project and a venue to show off her work. A professional design team is now working on branding/logos/a unified wrapping scheme that is so great, it won’t be done incubating for some time. But in the meanwhile, I’ve been making heavy use of my other art-student friend, a Russian with a penchant for Lautrec-style-lettering and whimsical semi-psychedelic scenes. ‘Round Midnight, she draws these labels using a quill pen—her form of relaxation after a long day of studies. I scan them, sometimes re-arrange a few things or add a word with my thick black felt pen, then print & cut ‘em up. By our avocations combined, we’ve fixed labels for ‘Hitchcock’—85% Panamanian, ‘Perrito Del Mar’—salted dark milk, dark milk salted caramel, and…

Fabulous new (or returning) bean origins! La Côte d’Ivoire et Malagache. Terroir is exhibited in the earthy taste du terre d’Ivoire. I experimented roasting hot on this one, scorching them to 250F and I evaporated away much of the pleasant mossy woodsy mustiness that was described by some in November (when I had la Côte for the beer & chocolate tasting) as ‘funky’. Well this time Groovatron gave way to a drier arboreal flavor, accented by apricot fruit and conventional chocolate that at 75% was, I suppose correctly, described by my Ruski artiste as being one of the mildest chocolates I’ve made.

De l’autre côté, Madagascar provides an ass-kicking wallop of sour red fruit, raisins & wine that stands in complete contrast. The time given to conching, the slow process of massaging melted chocolate with granite rollers to somehow smooth the flavor and texture, is a variable that chocolate makers can use to affect the outcome and imprint their stamp. The island nation’s cacao has a developing reputation for complexity, and you will see many other chocolate makers using or even devoting themselves to this origin. At the recent underground tasting party, known as the ‘1000 year old food club’, that I threw—beautifully recounted here—I sampled out both my and the Mast Brother’s interpretation of Malagasy dark chocolate. They were of roughly equal bitterness, 75 and 72% respectively, the main difference being that mine was relatively unconched, while I have it on high authority that the Mast’s leave theirs in the grinder for three days. The result is a milder Madagascar that no longer fumes with odiferous acidity, but blends smoke with reserved raisin. I have no opinion, but several at the event, unawares of maker information, related that they preferred the sharp-tongue of my version, unbridled, passionate and furious.

At this point, one may wonder, what are these hearts, this beautiful art and new cacao cohorts for? We are planning to exhibit these developments in our first retail launch, this Saturday (tomorrow!) at Amara Yoga and Arts in Urbana. As reported recently in the New York Times, yoga and chocolate are natural combinations and I am especially excited by the prospect of rewarding tired yogis with pure dark. The launch is to coincide with a special Valentine yoga class being offered by Maggie Taylor—intense yoga, capped with wine and chocolate by the usual suspect. Read the flyer and sign up for the event. As wrapper designs get fixed a tich more, I’ll be entering coffee shops & natural food stores, but for now, if you eschew my weekly emails & bike delivery service, stroll on over to Amara, try a bar and find yourself in satisfied palate pose.

So deeply do I care about fermentation—which, besides chocolate, is my other great food love—that somehow I cannot post on it. This again caused the silence in my blog, as I began what I hoped to be an epic description of several cultures I received some weeks ago and have been using to explore the underbelly world of Scandinavian fermented dairy products. However, no sooner do I get a couple paragraphs in that I am consumed by a desire to find verifiable statistics & research on raw milk consumption in the US, or a quest to identify which skin flora are responsible for personal scent…questions launching future research endeavors perhaps, but in the meanwhile, stalling my post.

So, sorry, perhaps the time is not yet ripe for me to write about bacteria, nevertheless, I am always able to eat them. Therefore, I would like to announce an event, the first in what I hope to be a series, that will make space for myself and all the other extant bacteriophiles out there, while hopefully, with the power of fermented foods, creating some new ones. The means by which I hope to alter minds is by offering up a meal composed of foods that have been lost, are no longer eaten, or are conflated today with substitutes that bear little semblance to their original character. Though some of the food is still eaten in other countries, sometimes other states, here even, perhaps a couple generations prior…we dub this antediluvian dinner party the ‘1000 year old food club’, signaling our intention to rediscover what sustenance felt like to millenia of humans.

On the menu will be: my dairy ferments, yogurt, viili, kefir. Sourdough bread with raw milk butter, good enough for a meal itself. Raw milk, spartan, unaccompanied to showcase its bare grassy, flowery appeal. Wonderful offals, headcheese. Tongue. Now stretching the theme a tich, chocolate (at least until I learn how to make Montezuma’s xocolatl). Finally, Homebrew beer.

About pleasure and adventure, this party will showcase the best in local artisan food and the best in human cuisine throughout the ages. Join me this Saturday, Feb 6th, anytime from 5-8pm at 407 S. Birch, Urbana, IL; Earth..